“Who wants to buy clothes now?”
Hoping, coping, volunteering: amidst war, Tel Aviv's fashion entrepreneurs stay resilient
In the early hours of Saturday, October 7th, 2023, in Tel Aviv we were abruptly awoken by the jarring sound of Tzofar, an application, which alerts you on air raids. Shortly thereafter, a siren urged us to take cover in a shelter or, if impossible (which was our case), leave the apartment and wait in the building's stairwells.
As the day unfolded, we would learn that thousands of Hamas terrorists had infiltrated southern Israel, breaking into civilian homes with a brutal array of violence: shootings, arson, and rape. Over 1,300 civilians were murdered, and more than 200 were abducted and taken hostage. As of now, the number of hostages believed to be held by Hamas in Gaza is up to 239. And the ordeal is far from over.
On that day, for the first time in Israel, I witnessed a collective pain of the nation.
I am a fashion writer. After the initial shock, I began to question whether it was even appropriate to discuss fashion at a time like this.
Yet, I soon started witnessing how local fashion businesses stepped up to volunteer, donate, extend support, and offer solace to their communities.
I talked to several entrepreneurs about the fashion industry during wartime, their emotions, and their thoughts on what the future might hold.
En Culture
At En Culture, a curated Asian streetwear store, doors are open for several hours a day: En Culture’s co-founder Nica Yakubov has been volunteering in Shenkar college while her partner Dan Pollak was drafted into the army. “In the first few weeks, we didn’t even begin to contemplate what might happen to the store or the business. We were so shocked that we didn't even know how to cope with it. Besides, who wants to buy clothes now? People fear Israel is heading towards an economic crisis. They don't know what tomorrow holds. Many have been laid off, and others are not working, staying at home. So the last thing anyone wants is to buy pants for 2000 shekels.”
“I try to remain optimistic. My belief is that during the war, everyone becomes cautious and refrains from spending, but after that, there's a certain resurgence and a sense of overcoming. People then feel inclined to spend and indulge. I hope that time will come.”
Nica says that the store’s brands understand the situation. “Currently, we've halted deliveries; however, we haven't canceled the orders themselves. We've spoken with suppliers and designers, and they understand the situation as they realize that no one will buy anything during the war. We planned the season in drops, and some drops are still in boxes, which is very sad. On the one hand, I feel remorse for thinking about such stupid things as clothes when people suffer and die. On the other hand, this is my business, this is what gives me money, this is my life. We remain hopeful for the best but prepare for the worst, as always.”
Nica has been sewing military supplies at Shenkar, her alma mater. “It's immensely gratifying. Initially, in the early days of the war, I felt utterly useless. I tried to volunteer, donate, and contribute in various ways, but I felt ineffectual. However, being at Shenkar makes me feel like part of a team, providing strength and a sense of purpose. It's empowering to know that the work contributes significantly. Moreover, it helps establish a routine, keeping me away from home, and endless scrolling on Instagram.” Right now En Culture is aiming to donate 30% of the profit to those affected by the war. “We're considering supporting either the individuals who were present at the Nova party (an open-air music festival was attacked by Hamas, resulting in the deaths of at least 260 people and the abduction of dozens as hostages), organizations aiding with post-traumatic disorders, or contributing to the kibbutzim in the south—anything that can have a positive impact and help people.”
You can shop En Culture’s select here.
Mood Store
At the Mood Store, Veronika Solovjanova, a co-founder, is organizing clothes donated by the Israeli brand Rize. Evacuees from the south of Israel will have the opportunity to visit and choose items for free. Veronika states, “We want them to have the opportunity to visit a nice store, select something, making it feel more like regular shopping rather than charity.” She adds, “I'll be there to share style tricks, helping them experience the joy of life.”
She continues, “During the first few days of the war, it felt unethical to focus on the store; there wasn't time for that. Presently, we work several hours a day because after 4 PM, foot traffic decreases, especially in small boutiques like ours (unless it's a shopping center). Either I or our salesperson, Anya, ensure someone is present; we aim to maintain employment as much as possible.
I was among the first to launch the hashtag #supportsmallisraelibusiness. I regularly post on social networks about small local places owned by friends. I believe it generates an effect where we all support one another. For instance, last Friday, friends who love my store arrived, asking for something unique and beautiful, aiming to support us. Their purchases helped cover the store's lease.
People unfamiliar with our store want to support Israeli designers. Often, they seek simple items like T-shirts or sweatshirts. With our brand, Holyland Civilians, we've sold nearly all our jerseys these days.
My husband, who remembers the intifada, says, ‘Don’t underestimate the importance of a dress. Supporting the country's economy matters.’ It's crucial not to feel ashamed of this.”
You can shop Mood Store here.
The Art Aid
The Art Aid project was initiated by photographer and blogger Liya Geldman and Olga Noshchenko, the chief concierge of The Vera boutique hotel. At their request, several Israeli artists (Shira Barzilay, known as Koketit, Amit Kanfi, or Kanfiel, and Roee Jakubinsky, or Binsky) created prints. For a contribution of 200 shekels, one can select any T-shirt. Olya reports, “We've already sold 104 T-shirts and raised 35,000 shekels.”
The proceeds from every T-shirt sold will directly support Israeli charities dedicated to assisting those affected by the conflict. The project team has covered the production costs.
Currently, there are two locations in Tel Aviv where the T-shirts can be collected: The Vera hotel and the Mood Store (in both pick-up points they also accept cash donations). Veronika Solovjanova from the Mood Store mentioned that the most popular print was “I will never apologize for being Israeli ever again.”
Shop The Art Aid here.
Maya Bash
“There really aren't any right words. WE ARE AT WAR,” writes Israeli designer Maya Bash. Now her store on Barzilai, 9 is open for several hours a day. “It’s ugly, shocking, and suffocating… Nearly every one of us has lost a friend, family member, or coworker, and it's far from over. Frankly, I’m scared. We all are.
The only thing that stops the pain and fear is doing something for others. These days, I’m among the many in the country busy supporting those who save our lives. Our army is fighting to protect us, and volunteers are aiding the army. There are massive sorting centers set up by regular people. These centers collect donations, sort, pack, and deliver supplies to base camps. It’s all run by regular individuals—Jews, Muslims, Christians, Arabs, refugees from African countries, and many others. This is just one example of how we're working and cooperating today.”
She continues, “Then, I return home and switch on the news, and it’s truly paralyzing. Yet, I can't afford to be paralyzed, even when all I want most is to lie down and cry for hours. I have a family to take care of and a business to run. Several years ago, I made a crucial decision to keep Maya Bash an Israeli-only brand (we say Kachol-Lavan, Blue-White, symbolizing the colors of our flag). It means I have local people relying on me, salaries to pay, and orders to fulfill—many are involved in these processes. The current situation threatens the collapse of local production chains.
Mayabash.com and many other local brands from Israel can only continue with the support of friends and customers from abroad, through purchasing our goods.”
with you all with all my heart